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Mercedes-Benz S 250 CDI BlueEfficiency cometh - First ever 4-cylinder S-Class

Umours have surfaced that Mercedes plans to interpolate their first four-spin S-Assort. Being prepped for prelude at the Frankfurt Motor Show , the Mercedes-Benz S 250 CDI BlueEFFICIENCY will fruit upright 155 grams of CO2 per kilometer. This follows a trend being held by a slew of automakers to judge their largest sedans less polluting.

The S 250 CDI uses the same 2.1-liter diesel machine already found in the C-Classification and E-Distinction and produces up to 224 horsepower with a highest 500 Nm of torque. Fulfilment figures have not been released, but we do recognize that the car will expeditions 100 km on about 5.9 liters of incite. Although entr-consistent, the S 250 CDI produces only 11 hp less than the S 350, which uses a V6 CDI.

If reports are scold, we should get more workings about this car over the next few weeks, as the elementary boyfriend nears.

Source: Mercedes-Benz S 250 CDI BlueEfficiency cometh - First ever 4-cylinder S-Class

Can a car be a reliable car and an high maintenance car?

okay for ex. A mercedes benz , bmw r reliable cars though they r expensive but do they require alot of maintenace or is it just cause the parts r expensive or what?

To answer this question directly, no. All cars require steady maintenance. A high maintenance car is one that needs more repairs than usual. Therefore, it, by its nature, is considered less than reliable. It breaks down more often and you can not count on it. A reliable car is one that, even if you don't maintain it as well as you should, just keeps on keepin' on. The cars you mentioned may be reliable, but the standard maintenance is simply more expensive. I find that Japanese cars are the most reliable.

The terms reliability, high maintenance, and expense of maintenance are not synonymous.

2006-12-03 15:31:30 by flipondizmission | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I have 1990 Mercedes Benz 300 SE. The car is in great condition.?

The R-12 has been ice cold until recently. It's starting to blow hot air after about ten minutes of driving. When I turn off the air conditioner for about twenty minutes, it starts blowing cold air again.

Is it just low on freon or is it electrical? Because the cost of R-12 is so expensive, what are your thoughts on changing over to R-134a? Thank you for your assistance.

If you can reliably repeat this, it would appear that you've got adequate freon in the system -- assuming it really does blow really cold air and not just tepid air now. As for diagnosis after the 10 minutes are up --

It's not tough to get a shop to stick a pressure gauge on to assure your freon level is up to snuff. I'm not sure I'd start there, but it's clearly an available diagnostic tool for this problem. The Benzmobiles have the old fashioned 'sight glass' in the line (on top of the receiver/dry or the accumulator) that can be used to give a person a clue as to freon levels. It's a small fitting in the line that contains a glass window. Smooth flowing liquid without a discernable number of bubbles indicates a reasonable level of charge. Lots of bubbles will be an indication that you're low. Take a look -- you might get lucky.

You'll want to assure that your compressor is actually cycling regularly after that time. If you can't sense it from the driver's seat (engine idle speed difference, sound, whatever), stop the car, raise the hood, and watch to see if the compressor clutch, driven by a belt, engages and disengages on a cyclic basis. In fact, it'd be good to watch this from the start while it's blowing "cold" so you'll recognize the difference should it cease to cycle.

If the compressor isn't cycling, there are several possible reasons for this. First, there's a pressure sensor that, given the "cold" you get for a while, should be sensing adequate freon pressure. If the freon is low, or this sensor fails, the system will try to protect the compressor by shutting off the system. Running the compressor low on freon (and the oil they add to it) can ruin the compressor. If this sensor is acting goofy, it could be keeping the compressor clutch from operating - thinking it was protecting the compressor.

Another possible reason for the compressor not cycling would be a clutch that ceases to work after it heats up. You'd need a meter to assure that it was getting voltage and just not working as a clutch. You'd see the 12V across the connector, but not the grab of the clutch to drive the shaft of the compressor.

If the compressor is cycling (clutch working), then you've probably got an issue with the way your "climate control" system is blending the air. The "cool" that is being generated isn't necessarily being directed into the cabin to cool you down. So you'd want to assure that your "climate control" system is working. It's not likely that this will behave the way you describe above (cease operating properly after 10 minutes of driving), but it's certainly in control of the A/C compressor clutch and ventilation mix, so is included in the list of "usual suspects".

I would only consider the cost of conversion to R134 *IF* for some reason you

a) find a leak in your system that requires recharge with R12
b) your R12 system has to be purged for or after a repair

Providing that you find that you're "freon-tight" now, I wouldn't mess with it until one of those two events should occur. Anything that would cause the need for a major add of R12 would cause me to bite the bullet for the R134 conversion.
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2007-07-17 12:00:05 by Jim B | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

What do you have to do to upkeep with a mercedes benz?

okay i heard if u can buy a usedmercedes benz u must be able to afford a new one as well....I heard they are reliable cars even more than japanese or maybe the same on average...but anyways...the maintainance is expensive though from what I hear...how much r we talking about her? if i buy like a 2002 model worth 11 thou or so....

We have a 06 CLS500 MB.

The first oil change was $102.00, but it took 8 quarts of synthetic oil and is good for 13000 miles. At first it looked like a rip off, but if you figure how much synthetic oil costs retail and the cost of changing regular motor oil every 3000 miles, the price was reasonable.

What I don't appreciated about the MB dealership is that they treat you like you don't know anything more than how to start and stop the car. We even got a post card requesting we bring the car in so they could check the tire pressure.

If you buy a MB, you had better seriously consider getting an extended warranty, even if it is aftermarket. Nothing on any MB is cheap. The thing does not even have an engine oil dip stick, you have to ask the computer if you need oil. Give me a break!!!!

The car was to keep a promise to my wife of 30+ years, she loves it, she likes to profile, but for me I would rather drive our Honda Fit.

If you had told me 10 years ago I would own a MB and a Honda, I would have said you were nuts!

2007-06-06 17:37:02 by flipondizmission | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs